As such, we – the rugged group of 27 4kers – have found ourselves triumphantly on the Puget Sound. Our second and final body of salt water. Last night, many of us showered for the first time in a week at an assortment of Anacortes hosts found through the Warm Showers network. I stayed with Beth Smith and her husband in there lovely guest house, on a hill from which I could see fog settling into the San Juan Islands. After showering and a bit of a nap, I spent a lovely evening chatting with my hosts and eating berries and spaghetti. Today, I was treated to breakfast at Mary Anne’s in downtown Anacortes. Followed by a guided tour, including an awesome thrift shop! My heart was won. That afternoon, I met with our next couple hosts – two wonderful women who work at the Anacortes Island Hospital.

Around 2:30, we caught the ferry to Guemes Island and our Island Hosts. We spent the rest of the evening exploring the beaches and hikes before hanging out with a great group of Island locals and eating a fabulous meal.

What a way to begin winding down a trip which seems both impossibly short and a lifetime of biking. The Cascades were “brutiful” (a 4k combo of beautiful and brutal). And I cannot express the joy of finally smelling the salty water and hearing the gulls cry. This is surreal.

Later, around 2 or 3, Richie picked Casey, Cali, and I up in his Amphicar! It’s a wild ride built in the 60′s that converts from car to boat – just drive it on in the lake! Which is exactly what we did. After a half hour of highway time, we popped out the propellor and motored around the lake for a bit, drinking sodas and having a generally fantastic time. There are so many moments on the 4k that are just unreal. Afterwards, Richie treated us to milkshakes

As soon as we returned, we rode our bikes over to the church hosting us that evening, before rushing over to our Hope Lodge debut! And what a debut! We had everything from comedy acts to barbershop quartets to granny gear bicycle races. And I think we were a hit. We hung out with the residents of the lodge for a bit, then went on home to sleep for the next day of riding.

We all stopped off at the South Dakota border to take pictures, then continued on our way, through the rolling fields of corn and soybeans.

We just kept on pushing through, and around mile 65, the day started getting pretty hot. It was a lovely ride, but by the time we were rolling into Marshall, the heat index was well above 100F. Roasting! We passed out in a subway over lunch, before heading to the YMCA where we were staying and going for a long swim in their pool! Afterwards, I tried to explore Marshall by foot, but it was much too HOT so I ended up passing out asleep under a tree in the park, before crawling back to the Y and sleeping there.  A yummy dinner of salads, fruit, veggies, and burgers was served by the Living Word Lutheran Church. After dinner, we all got together to debut our informational powerpoint. There were some rough edges, but overall, everything went well and opened up more conversations with our lovely chefs!

Tomorrow, South Dakota!

In any case, what we were not expecting was a warm, welcoming potluck provided by the family of a rider on the 4k Portland ride. Within hours, we were adopted by a neighborhood – stuffed with hands down the best food I’ve eaten in months, from homemade guacamole to BBQ to hummus to fresh baked baguettes. Topped off with pastries from our host’s daughter – a talented and acclaimed pastry chef. It was the kind of dessert you take pictures of first.

As dusk approached, we licked clean our plates, and settled into a circle in a yard now glittering with fireflies. We went through our group – names, where we’re from, why we’re riding. It felt less like a presentation – more cozy. At the end of our blurbs, we invited anyone to speak about their connection to the cancer community. One of our hosts stood up, and told the story of his grandson, Julian, who was diagnosed with cancer in the last year. Although most doctors expected a sure recovery, Julian died soon after his diagnosis, due to complications. Yet, in the wake of such an unexpected tragedy, his family reached out to other families in need – starting an annual fundraising event called Joggers for Julian. (www.joggersforjulian.com). His grandfather then gave us each bracelets from the run – I’m wearing it now and am excited to wear it throughout my ride – adding to my great patchwork of tan lines.

Soon after, we dispersed into groups to go home with different families who had volunteered to take us in. Some five or six houses took three or four or five of us in for the night, helping us with laundry, providing us with beds, making tea. Cali, Casey, Melanie, and I all headed back with Mickey and Richie. And although all of the groups will say they had the best hosts, Cali and I have agreed hands down that we were adopted by the greatest. We hauled our duffles two blocks, then immediately set out to watch the sunset and the passing NASA satellite. Then back to the house for tea and conversation, and deep sleep. In the morning, we woke to the smell of fresh bread, scones, steaming espresso, and the sounds of Richie, Cali, and Casey laughing up the stairs.

Although we’d lost 2 of our teammates – the day ended out in bundles of fun. We ended up joining with Johnny, Melanie, Ray, and Luc. It was great! We sped along through some pretty tough headwinds, but in nice temperatures under 85F. The views were beautiful through the Wisconsin countryside – what a gorgeous state! Lunch was a delicious array donated by Noodles & Company – including tofu!!! And then my group napped on the grass, in the shade of trees along a river bank for the next couple hours.

After finishing our 80 mile -ish day, we got in a little late to Elroy, but not too late to shower and talk with our hosts. They BBQ’d for us, and stayed around to tell us about the history of Elroy and the town’s initiatives towards fundraising and  cancer support. We also headed over to the Elroy fair to pet goats, eat a variety of fried things, and watch the horse pull! I went to bed pretty early on the hardwood gym floor of Elroy High School.

Best Sunrise Ever – I kid you not. (That’s the picture of us, below).

We sat there, watching and breathing in the morning air and cuddling through the chill. What a wonderful start of a day.

Our plan was to nap there, and wait for the rest of the group to catch up, but we started to be consumed by mosquitos. And we pedaled away down the road. The road and the view and the group of people – I cannot say enough. We breezed through a day of rolling Minnesota fields, feeding ourselves in the first town we got to – St. Charles – almost 55 miles after our meager 4 am breakfasts. Just before, we had the great treat of finding “That Place in Utica” – a small consignment store off the highway, in otherwise empty rolling hills. (http://www.facebook.com/groups/ThatPlaceInUtica/). There we were greeted by Mary and later Jenny – the two women who own and run the shop. It’s a collection of paraphernalia, sold at a low price to support local community building and benefit initiatives. The two women who own the place are both overwhelmingly kind and a hoot! Lots of laughs at That Place. They even drove the ten minutes down to return Chelsea’s phone after she accidentally left it in the store.

8 miles after St. Charles was the lunch stop for the later-leaving riders. We early-riders dog-piled on the cement and slept for an hour, ate some lunch, then dog-piled on the nearby grass for another hour of sleep. Then moved back to the cement for another 30 mins (after both vans and all the late-riders had left), before knocking out the last 12 miles between 20~22 mph in a pace line of 12. Whoot!

Got into the host, ate a great taco dinner, blogged some more, explored Rochester a bit, then much needed SLEEP.

We got into Notre Dame University around 3 or 4 pm and ate lunch on the grass. I climbed a tree with Johnny and Cali, then promptly feel asleep. Mostly heat exhaustion, I suspect. We headed over to our host, Holy Cross, in the care of a really warm, friendly, and helpful pastor. That night, we were treated to delicious BBQ by Raymond’s friends. It took all my energy to eat and then shower. I pretty much passed out at 10 pm, when I reached the host.

Saw a beautiful Indiana sunset. Tomorrow Illinois! How the states do fly by!

In any case, today we biked mostly along West 20, the two-lane highway along the coast of Lake Erie from Lake City to Cleveland. It was pretty flat, pretty manageable, and even with the detour factor, less than 90 miles. We wound our way through the vineyards and strawberry fields of the Great Lakes, until we started getting into the more populated areas of Ohio.

(I'm on top of the sign)

By the way – today we biked to Ohio! I am always shocked by state crossings on a bicycle. Sometimes, it feels like we’re just trudging along getting nowhere, and then suddenly, the state DOES CHANGE! Proof that the excruciating pain in my legs in worthwhile!

And the pain… Today was particularly bad. Not for the terrain itself, but for the combination of almost back-to-back centuries (about 190 miles over two days) and a sum total below 6 hours of sleep between those two nights. Even with the help of so many gracious friends, families, and complete strangers, the logistics of traversing the country by bicycle extend far beyond the day’s mileage – there’s still cleaning, cooking, route planning, looking for food donations, confirming hosts, finding showers, etc etc. I’m so glad I’m in such an amazing group of people, otherwise I don’t know how I could survive this. The last 20 miles, I was crying underneath my sunglasses, just from the pain and exhaustion in my legs. It’s silly, but I started naming every person I am doing this ride for, pedal by pedal in order to keep my feet moving. Somehow, I made it to our host – Case Western Reserve University.

Today, I rode with Johnny, Steve, Emily, and Marc – all great riders and we sped along. Especially – I suspect – when Emily and I started belted out songs and Steve wanted to get more huff and puff and less harmony out of us. I was a bit hot and very sunny, but not anything too serious. At one of the water stops, a man had come over to talk to us – with the double-decker bike he built! And I rode it, with my head some 10 feet above the ground. Dismounting was fun

Double century.

Too exhausted to haiku.

Refrigerator.

Also – another news spot! Check it out!

http://yourerie.com/fulltext?nxd_id=238032

Sandusky Bike Week

Everyone is wearing their

sunglasses at night.

Talking to bikers –

“Oh yeah, we just rode in from

Baltimore. Long ride.”

Thank you for feeding us and

also the soy milk.

I have not had much

soy milk lately. This thank you

deserves two haikus.

Sometimes it’s a little difficult to step away from the emotional and physical intensity of biking 65-120 miles a day and remember why we’re doing this. It’s just so awesome to see people’s reactions to our journey and hear their stories.

In Lykens, PA, we were welcomed by the entire community with opened arms and hot food. Everyone had a cancer story – many of the women who cooked the buffet of pierogies, cakes, pasta, chili, salads & fruit, were cancer survivors themselves. After this, we were bused in groups of three to the houses of different families to shower – even lent their own towels and soap, waiting in living rooms and talking as one by one we used the small shower upstairs. The generosity of strangers is awing. Around 7 am, my group started pedaling out of town, only to be hollered at by a woman getting her mail – “Aren’t you guys a little late? I heard you were leaving at 6:15. Now you better get a move!” She laughed a waved.

In Mansfield, PA, the mayor was waiting with an entourage of families, friends & cooks. After our hardest ride by far, we ate outside on tables, and were driven in family cars to the YMCA showers. In the morning we woke to warm cobblers and quiche. A couple women told us about a family with two children recently diagnosed with cancer and we talked to them about the support and contact information of the Ulman Cancer Fund.

In Ithaca, NY, we rebuilt the porch and landscaped for the Cancer Resource Center of the Finger Lakes. Later, a guy in his mid-thirties who we’d met along the ride from Mansfield drove the hour to Ithaca to donate $200 he’d raised from his coworkers in less than 24 hrs for the 4k. We met him at one of the Ithaca Falls and all talked and laughed. He just thought we were doing the greatest thing and wanted to help. PEOPLE ARE AMAZING.

In Buffalo, NY, we weeded, cleaned, and baked for the residents at the Hope Lodge. One woman was cooking lunch for her son – 23 – currently going through chemo. She made sure to pack 3 of our cupcakes, and we made sure to give the 4k scholarship info for young adult cancer support.  (http://www.cancer.org/Treatment/SupportProgramsServices/HopeLodge/Buffalo/buffalo-about-our-facility) The Harvest House in Buffalo where we were staying was also amazing. The couple who run the renovated church gave us free-range of couches and the kitchen, and came to cheer us on as we hosed and greased chains on the driveway.

Johnny's go-pro shot. 65 miles in. Fresh strawberry break!

At a restaurant near Cleveland, OH, a woman gave me $20 outside the bathroom after asking about my jersey. Her mother was going through radiation for breast cancer. At a gas station, a guy gave us another $20 and wished us well. A man donated 3 enormous pizzas – his daughter’s roommate was recently diagnosed. During our lunch break, a man lent us two kayaks to paddle around Lake Erie.

I cried the last 9 miles of yesterday’s ride from the pain and exhaustion of it all – and riding on a broken seat for 40 miles. Johnny came back and pulled me through the entire way. I know I couldn’t do this without the support of every person on this team, our hosts, the communities we pass through. And I know I will finish every time I see the amazement and inspiration in strangers along the way. What a summer! Two weeks in and I can’t believe it. Every day brings something new.  This country is filled with such kindness, generosity, and goodwill.

With the kindness of strangers,

the country is small.

Check the elevation gain.

First Haiku revised.

A sincere thank you

To the wonderful women

of Lykens, PA.

First Haiku mercilessly

ripped to shreds and trashed.

Flossing out pebbles and mud

A successful ride

Wicking is not waterproof.

Learn the difference.

We woke up around 5 am – the usual early start, packed up our bags from the warm, welcoming First Unitarian Church of Rochester (and when they say ‘first’ they mean it – apparently founded by Susan B. Anthony). After stumbling enough through the morning haze to accumulate all our belongings, we finished bike maintenance (the ABCs – Air in Tires, Brakes, and C… I will remember later) and gathered into our morning dedication circle.

The circle is a regular of the ride, the uncaffeinated jumpstart to the day’s journey. It’s amazing to think on how much it’s morphed in the last week.

We begin with our destination – and with a random fact surrounding its location, adeptly fabricated by our ride director, Spencer. Today was something about Buffalo and Bison and how it should really be Bison NY or something… (Before 8 am still qualifies as morning haze.) Then we get a deeply nonsensical proverb from Luke – amounting to “because hurt people hurt people.” We discuss the weather forecast – “when I say ‘chance of rain’ I mean it’s already pouring” –, the terrain, and our comically crude riding group names (I will spare you the details). Finally, we hold hands and dedicate our ride. Knowing it would be a difficult ride, I dedicated my ride to my Aunt Linda, who lost her mother to cancer and has been one of my biggest advocates all through the fundraising and preparation process. I sharpied her name on the back of my calves, filled up my water bottles, and set out with my group into the rain.

I rode with Steven, Ishpreet, Rose, and Lindsay – all marvelous people. Steve is a hilarious whiner.

The first 20 miles were rough. Somewhere around 15 miles, we had to stop because one of my teammates couldn’t brake, his fingers were so numb. We all stopped in a gas station and passed around a small cocoa (Venti by Starbucks standards). We made it to the first rest stop alright, layered on some more clothing, and hit the road again – some 35 minutes behind the second-to-last group.

We busted out the second 20. The rain had slowed a bit, but we were still soggy and drafting (riding closely behind the person in front of you, to get out of the wind) was a muddy mess. By the second water stop, we were stuffing newspaper into our jerseys for heat.

Another 20, and lunch. A restaurant (the Crocodile Bar?) brought us in to eat and gave us mugs of coffee. I picked rocks out of my tires with the tip of a pocket knife, and pushed through the last 27 miles.

We got to Buffalo, NY, around 5 or 6, at the Harvest House – a big old renovated church with a lovely kitchen, SHOWERS, and enough couches for all of us to sleep on. I showered, clogged the drain with mud (twice… J), and had a classic dinner of bagel, peanut butter, and avocado. Topped it off with an apple and a cup of instant coffee. Topped that off with a call to my mother. Topped that off with bed.

I also saw Niagara Falls for the first time!

When 50 miles is a yawn

Pushups, anyone?

Crossing the country by bike?

Haha! Piece of cake.

I cannot believe it’s only been 5 days on the road – feels so much longer. I don’t even know what day it is…

One week ago, I made it through a handful of airline delays, taxis, shuttles, and buses to the Hostelling International in downtown Baltimore, MD. I got in around midnight, slept until eight, and then made my way through the Baltimore heat to the Ulman Cancer Fund offices.

The next two days were my fast paced introduction to life on the 4k. Surrounded by alums (many from the Seattle route), we flew through safety trainings, a 10-mile ride, and last minute shopping trips  – anything to try and prepare ourselves for the next 70 days.

Finally Sunday morning rolled around, and at 5 am, we sleepily packed our bags, loaded the vans, and rode our bikes through the crisp morning air to the Baltimore harbor. There, we were greeted by family, friends, individuals who have been affected by cancer, or helped through with the support of the UCF.

(Here’s Eric, Liz, and I at the sendoff to the ride – http://www.baltimoresun.com/health/bs-md-4k-for-cancer-20120527,0,1749758.story)

The harbor sendoff was really what made the ride seem real. Reporters were there, and a hundred or so people cheering us on. We heard a couple speeches from heads of the UCF and then were on our way to York, Pennsylvania!

Our first night was fantastic – we slept on the padded gymnastics floor of the York YMCA, and were stuffed to the gills by our lovely hosts. That day was also Raymond’s – one of the riders – birthday, so we finished the evening with a group meeting and some delicious donated cake. What a way to start 4000 miles!